How To Clean Wood With A Polyurethane Finish
4 steps to a perfect polyurethane finish
You tin achieve a lustrous, smooth surface without using specialized tools or spray equipment. Just follow these easy steps.
Prepare your workpiece
A drinking glass-smooth finish begins with a level, even surface. To achieve this on open-grain woods (oak, ash, walnut, or mahogany, for instance), first fill the pores with a wood-grain filler, photograph below.
Quick Tip! Forest-grain fillers come in different colors; you can cull one to blend with the color of the workpiece for an even appearance, or select ane that contrasts for more pronounced grain.
Scrape off the excess and allow dry out. Sand the workpiece to 220 grit.
Apply stain and poly
Move to a low-grit setting: somewhere without lots of pes traffic and with dust-free surfaces. Yous can create such an surface area by hanging an cheap vinyl shower drapery in a corner of your shop. With your workpiece wiped clean, apply stain, photograph below. (Skip the stain if you lot intend to leave your workpiece natural-color.) Let dry.
Employ an even coat of stain to your workpiece, making long brushstrokes and overlapping the edges for full coverage. Wipe off whatever backlog stain.
Prepare the polyurethane past reducing information technology about ten percent with mineral spirits, unless you lot're using h2o-based polyurethane, which doesn't need thinning. Thinning the polyurethane makes information technology menstruum on more than smoothly and reduces brush marks.
Quick Tip! To reveal flaws (bubbles, castor marks, etc.) as you work, polish a light at a low bending across the surface.
Castor on 3 thin coats with a foam brush. (You can use a natural bristle brush with oil-based poly, only keep an center out for loose brush hairs.) Coat the entirety of your workpiece, but don't brush excessively or you'll create areas with besides footling polyurethane. Allow each coat to dry fully. To give the subsequent poly layers something to bail to, sand lightly between coats with 320-grit sandpaper wrapped effectually a hard block. Note: The first coat needs the nigh sanding to appear smooth; don't worry if it doesn't look every bit flawless as y'all'd like at start.
Later on the tertiary coat, sand with 320-dust, then 400-, and finally 600-grit sandpaper. Sand in alternating directions with each abrasive to make it easier to see whether y'all've removed the scratches from the previous grit. Sand with the grain on the last laissez passer. Then, wipe off the grit with a rag dipped in mineral spirits.
Put on the polish
The final coat gives your workpiece its smooth feel and flawless appearance, so give it extra attending. Spray on this glaze using an aerosol polyurethane and let it cure overnight, photograph beneath.
Agree the spray nozzle 12–16" from the workpiece and sweep the tin can across the surface without stopping. Apply only ane thin glaze.
Then, remove whatsoever dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of dark-brown paper bag. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high smoothen using automotive paste wax, photo beneath, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further.
Apply a small corporeality ofautomotive paste wax, workingin the grain direction to hibernate finescratches. Buff off the backlog witha make clean, soft rag.
Source: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/polyurethane
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